10 tips to ensure the success of your cuttings

Every gardening enthusiast dreams of expanding their plant collection for free. To achieve this, they have a secret weapon: plant propagation. Have you decided to take cuttings from your favorite Monstera variegata and exchange them for a caladium bulb? Want to renew a tired misery? Follow these 10 tips to make sure your cuttings are a success.

Cutting is a plant propagation technique. Cutting a plant consists in taking a section (stem, leaf, trunk) and rooting it to obtain a new specimen, independent of the mother plant.

There are other techniques for multiplying plants, such as :

Cutting produces a plant that is genetically identical to the mother plant. The cutting will have the same characteristics (leaf and flower color, foliage shape, scent, etc.) as the plant from which it comes.

Not all plants can be cut. Some plants, like conifers and annual flowers, reproduce by sowing. Others, such as fruit trees and certain rose bushes, multiply mainly by grafting. Finally, bulbous plants (tulips, narcissi, daffodils) use their underground organs to renew themselves.

Before taking the plunge, check that the species is suitable for cuttings. There's no point trying too hard to take a cutting from a poppy, an Echeveria leaf or a banana stem. The operation has no chance of success. You'd be wasting your time and reaping nothing but frustration.

Misery (Tradescantia zebrina), pothos (Epipremnum aureum), begonias and chain of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) are among the simplest varieties to propagate.

Most cuttings need warmth and light to develop. That's why we generally recommend taking cuttings in early spring, so that the young shoot can put down roots before winter. This time of year corresponds to the plant's growth period, another factor that increases your chances of success.

However, not all plants multiply in spring. For example, semi-evergreen or semi-woody plants such as hibiscus, oleander, roses, raspberry or star jasmine can be cut in late summer or early autumn. For some, you can even wait until winter.

The success of your cutting depends largely on the section you take from the mother plant. Before getting out your secateurs, take a good look at your shrub or plant to see where you're going to cut.

Choose a healthy leaf, stem, root or branch. It should not be overrun by pests or show signs of disease. If you're taking a leaf cutting, select a whole blade that hasn't been eaten by slugs or snails.

In most cases, you'll also need to take a flowerless shoot.

Finally, your cutting must be long enough. Depending on the species, you'll need to bury it five to ten centimetres in the ground or in water to allow sufficient roots to develop. So don't be afraid to cut a fairly large section, with several knots.

When you take a stem, branch or head cutting, you have to cut off part of the plant. Although the operation is painless, it is not without risk. Cutting leaves a wound and can also cause disease.

To ensure that your plant heals more easily and is not contaminated by fungus, always use a clean, sharp instrument. Disinfect your scissors, knife or pruning shears with alcohol before use.

Some gardeners also like to sprinkle the wound with black charcoal or cinnamon to reduce the risk of infection and decay. Others apply a healing hormone, but this isn't compulsory, especially if you've cleaned your tools before harvesting!

When making a cutting, we recommend cutting under a node. Knots concentrate a greater quantity of auxin, a hormone secreted naturally and which enables the root system to develop.

Also, cut the stem at an angle. This increases the contact surface between your cutting and its growing medium and encourages the proliferation of new roots.

Not all plants take cuttings in the same way. Pearl necklace Curio rowleyanus) and succulents are planted directly into the soil. Cuttings of Fittonia, Hypoeste or Philodendron, on the other hand, need to spend a few weeks in water to develop their roots.

What's more, some cuttings take better when they 're covered with a translucent cloche that guarantees a high degree of hygrometry. For others, this method is synonymous with rotting and is not recommended.

Not sure which method to use? Download the Monstera application. Our care guides show you how to cut your plants for each variety. When several solutions are possible, we suggest the one with the best chance of success.

The medium in which your cuttings are grown is an important factor in their success. Houseplants need a rich, light substrate, like seedling compost. Choose a quality mix that will provide your new plants with all the nutrients they need to thrive.

But not all species are suited to seedling compost. Cacti and succulents, for example, prefer a more draining substrate. For potted outdoor plants, a mixture containing garden soil is often recommended.

You can find a suitable substrate for your plant in the shops. But you can also make your own growing medium. Ingredients and proportions depend on the variety you wish to propagate. But you will almost always need :

Other elements, such as bark, peat or sphagnum peat moss, are necessary for cuttings of plants with specific needs, such as epiphytic plants or carnivorous plants.

Cuttings need light to grow, but they dread direct sunlight.

When taking cuttings from indoor plants, it's often best to place your pots in front of a window screened by a curtain. This way, your young shoots will receive maximum light.

When taking cuttings from shrubs, perennials or trees outdoors, give them a bright, sheltered spot. An eastern exposure, to take advantage of the morning sun, and against a wall is the best choice.

Cutting is far from an exact science! Even if you follow our advice to the letter, you may still be in for a nasty surprise. So don't put all your eggs in one basket.

Don't hesitate to take several leaves or stems to make several cuttings at a time, in different pots. If one of them doesn't take, you can always rely on the others for new plants.

Some cautious gardeners recommend taking seven to eight cuttings each time. If you're worried about being overrun by an army of Peperomia, or your rose bush isn't full enough to take that many branches, stick to four or five cuttings at a time.

You thought you'd done the hard part by cutting a branch from your mini-monstera? Think again! Now you'll have to wait for your cuttings to take. But you can't just sit back and wait for your cutting to produce new leaves. While your young shoot is putting down roots, you're going to have to give it a little help.

Start by checking the condition of the substrate. With few exceptions, potting soil should always remain slightly damp. Rather than watering it, mist it regularly with rainwater. It will be wet, but you won't risk soaking it.

If you're using suppressed cuttings, remember to aerate your plant every day. Remove the lid, bag or plastic bottle for a few minutes to prevent rotting.

Are your cuttings in a glass of water? Make sure the level doesn't drop and that the water remains clear. When the water becomes cloudy, change it. As with watering, use room-temperature water and, if possible, reclaimed rainwater.

Finally, be patient before transplanting your cuttings. You need to wait until the root system is sufficiently developed before potting or repotting your plant. The speed at which roots appear varies from one species to another and according to the conditions in which the cuttings were taken. When you take cuttings in water, you'll see roots forming after a few weeks. For cuttings in the ground, the appearance of a new leaf is generally a sign that the roots have begun to grow. Sometimes, however, the first leaves develop before the root system. Wait for several leaf blades to appear before repotting.