Opuntia stricta, an almost thornless cactus

Opuntia stricta

Opuntia stricta in the wild
Opuntia stricta in the wildCredit: John Tann
Opuntia stricta spines and glochids
Opuntia stricta spines and glochidsCredit: Oriol Sastre
Opuntia stricta flower
Opuntia stricta flowerCredit: Krzysztov Ziarnek
Yellow Opuntia stricta flower
Yellow Opuntia stricta flowerCredit: Pjeganathan
Exposure
Sun
Hardiness (USDA)
9a (-6.7°C ≤ T° < -3.9°C)
Lifecycle
Perennial
Foliage
Evergreen
Family
Cactaceae
Genus
Nopal Opuntia
Species
Erect nopal Opuntia stricta
Contents
Other names:Opuntia inermis, Opuntia airampo, Opuntia bentonii, Opuntia longiclada, Opuntia parva
With its golden-yellow flowers and crimson fruits, Opuntia stricta is very decorative. But think twice before planting it in your garden! This snowshoe cactus native to Mexico and the southern United States is one of the 100 most invasive species in the world!

How to recognize Opuntia stricta?

Opuntia stricta is an arborescent succulent plant. It can grow up to a metre high and three metres wide.

The stems are made up of green cladodes. Oval and spatulate, they measure up to 20 centimetres in length.

Opuntia stricta is often considered a thornless cactus. In fact, some specimens are inerminous. Others have spines only at the top and on the edges of the cladodes. But it's best not to get too close! The erect nopal has glochids, brown prickly prickles.

Yellow flowers appear in spring and summer. Melliferous, they are much appreciated by insects.

They are replaced by purple, pear-shaped fruits. Their flesh is riddled with seeds.

The plant is not toxic, on the contrary. Its fruits are edible, though not as tasty as those of Opuntia ficus-indica. The inside of the cladodes can also be eaten, in salads or grilled on the barbecue.

Our care tips

Opuntia stricta is not a poisonous plant. But its prickles and thorns can cause damage. Always wear thick gloves and long sleeves when handling it.

Think carefully before planting opuntia stricta in the ground. The plant reproduces easily and it can be difficult to control its growth.

WateringWatering

Water when the soil has completely dried. You can use reclaimed rainwater or mains water, provided it is not too hard.

Avoid over-watering. Moisten the substrate without soaking it. Too much water can rot the plant.

Be sure to remove any stagnant water from the saucer or planter. It could also rot the roots.

MistingMisting

Opuntia stricta grow in arid regions and do not like humidity. No need to spray them.

RepottingRepotting

Every year in the spring, repot your Opuntia stricta to give it more space.
Repotting is easier when the old substrate is dry. Wait a few days after watering before installing your Erect nopal in its new pot.

Obtain a perforated pot slightly larger than the root ball. You can place a bed of gravel or clay balls at the bottom to optimize drainage.

Then pour in a layer of potting soil for cacti and succulents. Plant your Erect nopal in the center. Add substrate and tamp down.

Remember to wear gloves and long sleeves during the whole operation to protect yourself from thorns!

FertilizationFertilization

To promote the growth of your Opuntia stricta, apply fertilizer in spring and summer.
Apply cactus and succulent fertilizer to promote growth.

PrunePrune

You can prune your Erect nopal to control its shape and growth.

Using pliers, hold the cladode you wish to section. Cut it off at the base using clean, sharp secateurs.

PlantingPlanting

When the risk of frost has passed, it's time to plant.
Choose a sunny, well-drained location. This could be the top of a slope, for example.

Dig a hole the size of the root ball. Plant your Erect nopal in the center and fill it in. You can use garden soil. If it's heavy, mix it with sand and pebbles.

Water for the first time to encourage rooting.

You can mulch the soil with gravel or a mineral material to keep the base of your Erect nopal dry.

Be sure to wear gloves and long sleeves to protect your skin from thorns and glochids.

Taking cuttingsTaking cuttings

Cutting is carried out during the strong growth phase, generally in spring and early summer.
Locate a healthy racket at least ten centimetres long. Hold it with a pair of pliers. Cut at the base (where two cladodes meet) with sharp, clean pruning shears.

Leave your cutting to dry for seven to fifteen days in a dry place, until a callus forms at the base.

You don't have to cut a cladode. If a racket falls out (during repotting, for example), you can dry it out and replant it.
Pour a mixture of potting soil and sand into a pierced pot. Plant your cutting vertically.

Water well for the first time. Then stop watering until the first signs of growth appear.

Disease / Threat

Information

Lifecycle
Perennial
Foliage
Evergreen
Exposure
Sun
Planting methods
Open groundIn potsIn tubs
Categories
ShrubSucculent
Tags
Edible fruitBeginnerInvasiveHard to kill
Origin
Central America
Hardiness (USDA)
9a (-6.7°C ≤ T° < -3.9°C)
Leaf color
Light green
Flower color
Yellow
Fruit color
Purple

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